Showing posts with label travelling. Show all posts
Showing posts with label travelling. Show all posts

Thursday, April 30, 2015

Amigos Ecuatorianos in Deutchland

We met Bozi and Martina in 2013 when we were all travelling in Ecuador. We became fastfriends, and lucky for us, it stuck. We were also lucky to be meeting both Bozi and Martina in Chemnitz, Germany, where Bozi lives. We were really looking forward to seeing them again! With Bozi acting as our knowledgeable tour guide we explored Chemnitz, the surrounding countryside and Dresden. We picnicked by the lakes, discovered a mini castle, ate lots of ice cream, tasted the local brew and got and insiders view on Eastern Germany.

Plus, Chemnitz used to be called Karl Marx Town (even though he had never been there) so we got to see the world's biggest sculpture of his head! This is him, photo bombing our group picture!

It was a super fun weekend in two beautiful German cities with two great friends. The only bad thing was that it was over too soon!

Monday, April 27, 2015

Krum Here My Lov

Cesky Krumlov is a smallish town, three hour bus ride south of Prague.

The day started with a bus ride. Not just any bus. A bus that had televisions in the back of the seats, with English programing and music, free hot chocolate and free earphones to borrow! I'll take it over another trans-Atlantic Air Canada Rouge flight any day (not to say anything bad about the flight attendants: they were awesome)! Note to Air Canada Rouge: Entertainment for Apple users only =
ridiculous/get your act together.


Triposo, my new favourite app, led us right to our hostel from the bus station in less than 10 minutes. Not that we minded walking. It was the most beautiful Spring day of 2015. Everything was coming up roses; almost literally. The cherry blossoms were out, trees actually budding green, not a whisper of snow to be seen! Our hostel, Kromlov House, is amazing. One of best places we've stayed, ever. Its an old building that was once a bakery and then a quarantine house for those wanting to enter the city, so to make sure those travelling folks didn't have the plague, or any other nasty ailment. And now, its a super atmospheric spot built around a huge two story brick oven with old wooden doors, brass latches, hand hewn wood furniture and lots of great character. The owners told us that when they bought the house nearly twenty years ago, the roof was falling in and the whole house was in shambles. When outsiders were finally allowed back into the Czech after the Wall came down, many of its towns were all but deserted. In fact, Cesky Krumlov itself was practically taken over by forest. Trees were growing out of rooftops, buildings were abandoned, windows broken. It sounds like it was a veritable ghost town. Thankfully the potential of the beautiful city wasn't ignored. Today, it is the Czech's second biggest tourist town.

Cesky Krumlov was stolen straight from a fairy tale. Or, maybe all fairy tales were set in Cesky Krumlov. Either way, you get the idea. Visiting mid-week, in April was perfect. We were able to experience all the atmosphere with very few other tourists.

We had perfectly warm, sunny weather. Conveniently, Cesky Krumlov has a seemingly endless number of terraces, patios and balconies from which to enjoy said weather. Often we were accompanied at these locations by an excellent Czech beer. Sometimes also with a Czech staple, fried cheese, and one special afternoon we even indulged in some local layered honey cake.

It was J who was lucky enough to celebrate his birthday in Krumlov. We hiked to a hill overlooking the town and were rewarded with spectacular views of the town with all its red roofs, the river that hugs it, and the rolling countryside rising up on all sides of Krumlov, as if to try and hide its secret down in the valley.

We splurged on a traditional banquet with a mug of sweet mead. The restaurant's terrace was overlooking the rushing river and there were even fleece blankets to cuddle into as the sun fell behind the town castle. J made 'birthday decrees' like 'You shall not feed the stray cat the ham from your plate,' and “Thou shall not punch the birthday boy on his birthday.” Because it was hisbirthday I had no choice but to bow to his unreasonable demands. Poor cat.

Krumlov was adorable during the day, but it was down-right-magical when the sun went down. If there was a picture beside the definition of a Romantic Evening Stroll, it would be of one of the countless bridges and alleyways that wind their way through Krumlov. You could hardly blame me for insisting that we meander around just one more cobbled corner.

Kromlov House
Private room with a private bathroom 1,000 czk per night.


Thursday, April 23, 2015

Czech out this Prague Blog

I was enamoured by Prague almost the moment we arrived. I'm not sure if it was because we had been waiting so long to get here.. or if because almost immediately upon arriving, we started in on a local tradition... of beer tasting. 'Where beer is good, life is brewed,' No. Wait.
'Where beer is brewed, life is good,' or so goes an old Czech proverb.


Either way, after sampling some local Czech beer, I had a whole wad of insightful opinions about the city we had been in for less than five hours. J was lucky enough to hear them all on our moonlit stroll home from the Micro Brewery. But with choices like coffee, banana and nettle beer you kinda have to try them all.

But don't worry: According to the Czechs themselves, Czech beer is so pure that it is virtually impossible to get a hangover after drinking it. Its always good to think positively.

Prague, to me that night, was a juxtaposition of soft elegance and bold change. Beautifully detailed, brightly painted buildings topped with red roofs, next to concrete slabs covered in graffiti. A Vietnamese pho shop next to a traditional eatery. Grey communist-era buildings beside the KFC. So many painstakingly restored buildings in a city with a long, fascinating history. Prague was built up in my head and I was worried that it couldn't live up to my imagination. But finding the cobblestones, the narrow alleys, the massive ornate buildings hiding themselves around each corner, the Prague Castle reflecting in the river, the mellow glow of street side lanterns making every step oh-so atmospheric. Prague was magic.

Fast forward to the next day at noon. Standing in front of the Astronomical Clock on the Old Town Tower, in the Old Town Square. Aka. Tourist Central. The clock performs a forty-five second mechanical display with four characters playing a part: Death, Greed, Vanity and Pagan-Invasion (the biggest fears of 15th Century Prague-ites) essentially a giant cuckoo clock of sorts. “This is THE MOST touristy city in all of Europe,” I exclaim to J. Its jammed. With a bunch of tourist gawking at the clock. I get the feeling that most of them aren't sure why they're there. They just know they're supposed to be. I can't really be annoyed about that, though. I'm standing there too; watching the (rather anti-climatic) astronomical clock strike noon. I feel a bit bad for the clock.

A quick duck down a side alley and the tourist crush disappeared- another shot of Prague magic. Stray one street away from the wax museums and key chain emporiums- and you lose 75% of the tourists. Definitely those following the tour-guide-lady with the stuffed turtle taped to the top of her umbrella.

A breath of air (and some warm Trdelník, a sort of sugary/doughy dessert) and I'm in love with Prague again. I am also in love with this new travel app I downloaded called “Triposo.” You can download a city map, along with food, accommodation and activity recommendations. And the map is so detailed. It is like coming out of the dark ages of LP cartography. Seriously. Then, on your handy dandy smart phone you can use your GPS and find your way around super easily! Gone are the days when we're standing on a street corner arguing! Hello happy travel partner!

Prague is street after cobblestone street of photogenic Eastern/Central Europe. The Prague Castle, all fairy-tale-like, looms over the city and offers sweeping views to those who huff up the hill (as well as those who took the funicular- but they didn't really earn it, now did they?) Then there's St. Charles Bridge, where legend has it that in 1393 a priest (St John of Nepomuk) was tossed off by King Wenceslas IV (...not good King Wenceslas who looked out on Boxing Day) for refusing to divulge the Queen's confessions. Legend also has it that gold stars in the halo of his statue followed his corpse down the river. Now his statue has a bronze plaque at the bottom of it. Yet another tradition is that if you rub this plaque, you'll return to Prague one day. Who doesn't love a good tradition?
 
Speaking of tradition, lets bring this blog post full circle: The age old Czech tradition of beer drinking. According to our guidebook, Czechs drink more per capita than ANYONE else in the WORLD. Around 150L per person, per year! There is no doubt that there are certain consequences to the reality of that statistic, but I digress. With a brewing tradition that goes back nearly 1000 years, the Czechs have really had time to perfect lager. Or Pilsner, if you prefer. Pilsner was actually developed here in the Czech, in the town of Plzen. So there's a fun party fact.

Prague has a lot to see. Its especially hard to get through all the serious sightseeing when every other street boasts a refreshing beer intermission. But wait- there's the Prague Beer Museum. This is no museum, I admit. Just a tricky name to ease a bit of the sight-seeing guilt as you watch the glass of time drain to half full. All you while trying to decide which of the 30 beers on tap to taste! Plus, we were at a Beer Museum after all, one should expect to learn something. For example, I learned that while beers in the Czech are labelled by degrees- temperature is not actually what the little degrees symbol is indicating. Its actually some complicated system that doesn't relate at all to the temperature the drink is served at, nor directly to the percentage of alcohol in the beer, but its “an indicator of specific gravity known as a 'Balling' rating.” Ok, so I didn't actually learn that. I copied it directly from the guidebook. I stopped trying to understand after the words 'gravity' and 'beer' were in the same sentence. But, thankfully we have smart friends: Thanks, Lasse!

Anyways, I can tell you who was going to forget everything that they learned that afternoon. That would be the four German twenty-somethings who rocked up to the bar and proudly declared as they clinked their first foamy glasses, that they were going to work their way through ALL 30 beers that the Prague Beer Museum had on tap. Cue us leaving. 

 

Wednesday, April 15, 2015

Lesson #2: Eating in the Czech

There are a lot of rules to follow when eating in the Czech. J was reading them to me as we waited for our first dinner in Prague. According to the Lonely Planet: 'only a barbarian would begin a meal without first saying "dobru chut" (bon appetit)' and 'the first drink of the evening must be accompanied by "na zdravi" (cheers) and its bad manners to talk while eating because you don't want to distract people while they are enjoying their food....  Prague
tap water (as labelled on the menu) cost an extra $1.50; bread that is delivered to your table (even if you don't order it) is then charged to your bill; and beer is listed by some out-of-the-ordinary number that is indirectly related to the alcohol percentage in the beer, but not solely or accurately stating the actual alcohol percentage of the beer. Weird, isn't it? Anyway, lots of things to remember.

Our receptionist suggested we try 'Cafe Louvre', as it was her favourite. Plus, it was across the street- and I was hungry! The atmosphere was amazing. Huge windows overlooked the street from the second floor seating, sparkly chandeliers hung low and big mirrors reflected the light around the room. Victorian style trim and wallpaper gave the space an undeniable elegance and with the antique cash register on the counter, I felt like I was walking into a different time.

We ordered traditional Czech dishes. J got fried cheese dumplings in a mushroom sauce and I ordered chicken breast in a roasted red-pepper sauce with spaetzle (a yellow, thick, delightful pasta). The plates were attractively arranged and both the food (including the Prague tap water and bread) were delicious. In the middle of our meal a very old lady came over to our table came over to our table and gave me a great big hug. She didn't speak a lick of English, but from what I gathered she was from Dubrovnik and I was from either Germany, England or the Netherlands. She seemed very happy that we were here and I was happy that she was happy (and also because I was eating delicious food). J said he had smiled at her a few times over the course of our supper... maybe that's why she wanted to talk/hug!

Sadly, and as expected, I had filled up on the (not) free bread, and only finished half my meal. Not wanting to waste (and thinking it would be a tasty breakfast) I wanted to bring my leftovers back to the fridge at the hostel. But, were leftovers a thing in the Czech? There were so many rules, and with the 'double double' misunderstanding yesterday - maybe leftovers were just a Canadian thing too?! Who knows. Apparently there are a lot of things this so-called 'School of Life' hasn't taught me. I don't think in all of our travels, I have ever had leftovers after a meal out... That and the fact that this was quite a fancy restaurant (again abnormal for our travels). Would they be offended if I asked for a takeout box? The amount of time I spent pondering this, and the fact that I'm now writing a blog about leftovers is pretty ridiculous. But in a fun way- right? Anyways. I tried to eat more- thereby eliminating the need for me to ask the left-over question at all. But I really ate a lot of that (not) free bread, and I was stuffed to the gills. Our server came over to collect J's empty plate. She looked at mine. I sucked it up and asked, 'Is it possible for me to bring this home?' gesturing obviously at my food. She looks at me for a solid ten seconds without saying a word with a confused look on her face. I'm assuming she's trying to decide how to tell me in English what a silly proposition I had just made. She is still staring at me. 'The food? Yes!' she exclaims, as if I had asked her if this particular Czech restaurant served beer, 'Of course!' Turns out she was just trying to decide whether I was actually an idiot-or just blonde. Either way. I had leftovers for breakfast, and that is all that really matters.

Wednesday, December 21, 2011

Homeward Bound

So. Here we are. Our last day. After 444 days of adventures around our glorious planet, we can finally say, with no small amount of excitement and anticipation, that today, we are homeward bound!

How to summarize our trip? We've been to 18 countries, and one principality over the last fifteen months. We've traveled by train, plane and automobile. By foot, bicycle, bus, bus roof, campervan, auto rickshaw, cycle rickshaw, tuktuk, tri-shaw, metro, funicular, monorail, ferry, catamaran, longtail, glass-bottom boat, kayak... We've marveled at the sun rising over the snow capped Himalayas, and set behind Cambodia's Angkor Wat. We've met the friendliest locals, ate the most delicious food, and witnessed the most inspiring displays of humanity, and humility. We've been overwhelmed by the generosity of strangers and have had plenty of time to consider our roles, responsibilities and impact on the communities we've visited. We've contributed our time through volunteering in Lao, Cambodia and China and felt incredibly lucky to have been let into the lives of people in each of those places. We've mailed 434 postcards and 6 packages. We've visited old friends, and then made new friends and visited them as well. We've spent time with family and made friends so close that they felt like family. Its really been a fantastic, eye-opening, thrilling, exhausting, frustrating, educating, epic, once-in-a-lifetime adventure.

That being said, we are also super happy and ready to come home. Home. A word that represents so many wonderful things to me. Especially after being away from it for so long and all my memories are especially rosy. Whenever we fly anywhere with WestJet, the flight attendant always comes on the announcements after we've landed and says something like, 'We've landed in Calgary, ladies and gents! If Calgary is home to you, then lucky you, welcome home...!' Welcome home. No matter what, even though I don't live in Calgary, or Toronto, or Vancouver, or wherever it is that we've just landed-no matter- I feel that sad little prickle of tears behind my eyes. Pathetic, I know. But, 'Welcome Home.' Welcome home. It gets me every time. Sweeter words I really can't imagine. Home. Its an all encompassing word for me. My country, my province, my street, my awesome friends, my incredible family, everything that is the most important to me. Though, its not really a physical place as much as it is a feeling. Its where I feel most happy, most loved, most comfortable. Its where I belong. Home is where I belong (when I'm not travelling, of course). And someone, even though she's just the West Jet lady and may or may not mean a single thing by her words is nice enough to welcome me to all this. Welcome Home. Welcome home. Welcome Home.

Home. Canada. I'm always proudest to be Canadian when I'm traveling abroad. At home its not so special. Everyone is Canadian. To be honest, I miss hearing the Canadian accent. I miss people who say 'eh' and know what a toque is and where Newfoundland is. I miss being around people who understand that it is offensive when people first mistake you for an American and then follow it up with 'Well, close enough, right?' Umm. Well, physically, I suppose. Oh! And Tim Hortons and everything Presidents Choice makes. And maple syrup. I miss Canada's majestic rocky mountains, the red roads and lighthouses that dot PEI' s coast, the pristine north channel, the prairie sky, Newfoundland's rocky shore, and, more than any other slice of our great country, the windswept pines, moody waters and the perfect in every way, 30,000 islands of Georgian Bay. No, I haven't been gone long enough forget all Canadian geography- I do know that I can't just hop in the Mooney-mobile and drive over to Vancouver Island for the weekend from Niagara Falls. Yes, I do still know that I actually live no where near the west coast's mountains or the east coast's lobsters. But I just love knowing that hey are there, somewhere in our vast country, my home, and that they are just one quick West Jet seat sale away. No passport required.

Its really been a fantastic, live-changing adventure that I wouldn't trade for all the tea in China, and believe me, that's a whole lot of tea. But now we are ready and excited for the next chapter in the Adventures of J&K- life back in Canada.

In the words of fellow Canadian Michael Buble, 'It'll all be alright... we'll be home tonight.. we're coming baaack hoommme!!!'

ps. See you at the airport TONIGHT Mom and Dad Mooney! Be ready for the Morning of Maple tomorrow Mom and Dad Moldie and GG! (Cutest Gramma in the whole world- its official now- we've checked)

Monday, December 19, 2011

On Our Last Legs

More than once during our adventure people have replied to something or other that we've said with, "You have way too much time on your hands!" And as we are quickly coming to the last leg of our trip we can't deny it: we have had almost nothing but time to think.

Maybe you could call it 'free' time. The issue with calling it so, however, is the idea that free time is only the leftovers or scraps of time remaining after everything else that is more important is done. It tends to be approached in a passive gait. It is no wonder someone who feels overworked can look at another person who talks about enjoying 'free' time and ask, "How does she do it?" In the nearly nine years Kristen and I have been an item, many people have asked us this question. And we've queried plenty of people this as well. Whether they were talking about a long trip or a short trip, a regular time to pray, a regular tee off time, or whatever it happened to be, their answers were the same as ours. They didn't hope to find scraps of time leftover to do whatever it was that they enjoyed doing. They gave a degree of priority to their 'thing' and made time for it. In other words, they took an active approach to their free time rather than being overly passive about it. In our particular situation we made sacrifices to open up room in our lives for a fifteen month adventure. But it isn't the amount of time that is of primary importance.

What is most important is to give yourself enough time to still your mind and body, and to regularly take that time to come out of the driving currents that carry along most of the daily schedule. And, of course, you don't need fifteen months to do this. You would be surprised with what can happen when you dedicate five to ten minutes each day to this. Things long forgotten or ignored are then given a space to wake up and remind you that despite how busy your life has become, you are still you and your depths are still stirring. I have a small example. As a child I loved to draw. On this trip my love for drawing reasserted itself and it lead me to carry a sketch book around to capture some scenes along the way. It is a true joy to be reminded that sketching something here and there is an activity I want in my life, even though it will probably occupy only a very small part of my time. It was an enriching rediscovery for me.

For us, we have had time on this trip to really piece together our more deep-seated interests into a possible framework for our life in Canada. We might say it has given us some perspective on what we think is a worthwhile way to live out our life together. So, yes, we have had a lot of free time. We are happy we scheduled it in. And we have a feeling that the echoes from this trip will continue happily and hopefully into our lives, gently shaping our married life for many years to come.

Saturday, December 17, 2011

Thank You! Thank You! Thank You!

Each of you really helped make this one of the best times for us yet!

Laura & Rosemary; Adam; Hazel & Brent; Kathy & Steve; Maureen & Maurice; Josh, Sharon & Jade (congratulations on the engagement!); Dave & Bron; Sophie; Jac & Josh; Jacqui; Sandra; Joel & Sonia; Ani, Rini & Indir; Dalen & Abbie; 100 Day Crew; Banana; Taylor; Steven; Swedish Couple; Haberstocks; Satit & family; Didi & Sunshine School; Saba, Jock, At & Phout; Randall; Tobias; Luba; Lis, Ian & Libby; Mark & Rachael; Paul & Dorothy; Attila & Candy; Sophie & David; China-boy on the bus; Mila & Quiz-Night Friends; Zhouyue Students; Marvin; Vikramjit, Raj, IFM & EM; Amritsar Family; Mr and Mrs Sandhu & family; Mr and Mrs Ram & family; Mommyjit; Everyone else who welcomed us in Ashok Nagar; Ladies of the Shack; Kevin & Vicky; Marco & Nadine; Couple in NZ who brought us the coffee cake; Amy & Mike; Antonio & Andreas; Mark & Claire; The Nepal Threesome; Aunt Eileen & Uncle Trevor; Pappy; David, Holli & Jake; Rosie & Jane; Jean, Trevor & family; Everyone who read our blog; All our family and friends for your support and blog comments; and Sarah and Ed for getting married on October 2nd and starting this great time off!

Monday, December 12, 2011

How Much Does it Cost to Travel Around the World?

We have kept a detailed daily expense book throughout our trip. So we know how much a Thai tea cost us in Chiang Mai and what we owed at a side of the road toilet stop in China.

If you have more specific financial questions about this trip, feel free to message us. Otherwise here we will give some helpful cost parameters for each country we visited in Asia. We will also give the date we were there, which is important to know when visiting Asia: one year can make a big difference in what prices can be for foreigners. That can be annoying when the most recent guidebook is two or three years out of date. Also these numbers will be only food and accommodation costs. These costs could be much smaller if you where on a shoe string or much more, depending on your own style of travel. We ate good food, were always full and always (except for one night) had bright, clean and private rooms full of natural light. Most of the time we even had our own attached bathroom.

As for transportation, in each of the following countries public transportation was uniformly inexpensive. Whether you are taking a cross town bus or travelling twelve hours on bus or train, it rarely cost us more than $4 or $5 for the both of us. The exception to this is China, but we made a note of that below.

Prices are in CAD and are for the two of us together. Here's our trip, anyway.


Singapore (New Year's-January 2011)

High and Low price range for rooms: $58 (New Year's Eve...everything is expensive)
Average daily food costs for us: $4

Notes: Singapore food is so tasty, varied and cheap! Also, we were only here for three nights.


Malaysia (January 2011)

Most usual room price for us: $6 to $8
High and Low price range for rooms: $6 to $16
Average daily food costs for us: $10 to $20

Notes: Search out Malaysian Roti...you will NOT be sorry you did. We spend a lot on food...it is so delicious! We were only on Peninsular Malaysia.


Thailand (January, February 2011)

Most usual room price for us: $9 to $12
High and Low price range for rooms: $6 to $16
Average daily food costs for us: $10 to $16

Notes: The rooms and food on the islands are much more expensive than in mainland Thailand.


Lao (February, March 2011)

Most usual room price for us: $7 to $10
High and Low price range for rooms: $6 to $12
Average daily food costs for us: $10 to $12

Notes: If you are Canadian your Lao visa will cost more money than if you were a citizen of any other country in the entire world.


Cambodia (March, April 2011)

Most usual room price for us: $10
High and Low price range for rooms: $9 to $16
Average daily food costs for us: $15 to $20

Tuk tuks around the Angkor temples cost between $6 and $10 for the day. To go to the furthest temples it cost us $20 to $25 for the day.

Massages cost about $1 for 20 minutes or $2 to $3 for one hour. We knew these charges very well.

Notes: These numbers only represent Siem Reap and Phnom Penh. Cambodian food is really tasty. Tourists only use USD in Cambodia, not the local currency. Even the ATMs dispense USD. Weird, isn't it?


Vietnam (April, May 2011)

Most usual room price for us: $7 to $10
High and Low price range for rooms: $7 to $20
Average daily food cost for us: $10 to $15

Cost of bus/boat (including food and entrance tickets) to Cat Ba Island in Halong Bay, return: $48 ($24 pp)


China (May, June, July 2011)

Most usual room price for us: $8 to $11
High and Low price range for rooms: $7 to $20
Average daily food cost for us: $10 to $20

Notes: Don't fret: if you are vegetarian you can eat well in China. You will just need some patience. Except for Xi'an, Chengdu and Chongqing we were only in small town, rural China. By a large margin, these large cities were much more expensive for food and accommodation. Transportation was much more expensive throughout China than in SE Asia, BUT was of a higher quality than in those other countries. That isn't to say, however, that the emissions were any better...China might be single-handedly killing the world's environment. Also admission prices in China are quite dear. If you really get angry being around second hand smoke, you will be angry in China. Smoking in restaurants, hotels and even buses is pretty overwhelming and pretty gross.


Nepal (July, August, September and October 2011)

In the Cities:

Most usual room prices for us: $6 (in July and August) and $6 to $15 (Sept and Oct)
High and Low price range for rooms: Same
Average daily food costs for us: $10 to $15

On the Trek:

Most usual room prices for us: usually free, if we ate at the guesthouse (shows how ridiculously overpriced the food is!)
High and Low price range for rooms: Free to $5
Average daily food costs for us: $10 to $35 (this is mostly just for rice, oatmeal and tea)

Notes: We only ate two meals per day and had some snacks to keep up our energy levels in the afternoon.


India (August, September 2011)

Most usual room price for us: $8 to $9
High and Low price range for rooms: $4 to $10
Average daily food costs for us: $4 to $10 (Yes, this is for two people)

Two hour Yoga class in Rishikesh: $3

Notes: Kristen had a song in India that went like this: Four chai for fifty cents! Repeat this over and over and over and over again and then you too can sing the song!


Sri Lanka (October, November 2011)

Most usual room price for us: $13 to $15
High and Low price range for rooms: $11 to $20
Average daily food costs for us: $9

Notes: The emissions from vehicles in Lanka could rival those found in China.

That's it for our Asian Leg. We hope this helps and happy trails!

Monday, December 05, 2011

The Feast of Saint Nicholas

I'm not a big fan of Santa Claus. I was, but I'm not anymore. I am, however, of the mind that remembering a person who those around him felt that he (or she) wholeheartedly and meaningfully participated in the life of his community is time and thought well-spent. And that is what happens at feasts. At Christmas dinner stories about my great-aunt and great-uncle always come up. For me and my family it would be impossible to think of Christmases Past without them and their home. Out of their love and generosity they have left us with some very special memories now that they themselves have passed away. In the same way, that's what the feast of St Nicholas is about: making room for stories and traditions to be reborn in ourselves.

The historical Good 'Ole St Nick was a fourth century bishop in what is now modern day Turkey (he isn't Santa Claus, but the present day Claus is a construct (maybe you could even say 'a mutation') of earlier characters that were inspired by the real deal...don't mix them up now). There are more than a few traditions surrounding his life, but there is one in particular that is better known than others. There was a family who had a daughter but no money to offer as a dowry so that she could be wed. Just like many places nowadays, once the daughter reached a certain age her family would shed their financial responsibility towards her and she would have had to find a means to live elsewhere. If she were to marry, her husband and his family would do this. But without a dowry this wouldn't happen. Life would have been quite desperate. And of course, desperate times call for desperate measures: if nothing else, it would have opened the door of possibility to a life of prostitution for the daughter. Seeing and understanding the girl's situation, tradition says Nicholas left three gold nuggets on the family's window one night so that with them the family had a dowry to offer for their daughter. A happy ending, right? If you have ever found or even gave a mandarin orange (or three) in a stocking and never knew why that sort of thing is done, now you do. It is the tradition of this story being kept alive. The mandarins symbolize the gift of the gold nuggets.

An example like his is a good one to keep in mind around Christmas holidays. Sometimes the holiday might look more like Stuffmas. Of course, the gold nuggets are the gift in the story, but they wouldn't have been if someone hadn't looked hard enough to really consider what was important to the daughter. Part of the gift was his involvement in her life, which is how Nicholas was probably able to become aware of what was important to the daughter and her family. When we concentrate (not just at the holidays) on truly being as fully present as possible with and for the people we love, what just-the-right Christmas gift for them would be should become clear.

Every year December 6th is St Nicholas' feast day. The date flies under the radar of most North Americans, but in Belgium it is a BIG day. When we were there every single chocolate shop in Brugge (and that's no small number) was filled with chocolate St Nicks. Though we weren't in Brugge for the 6th, by the stroke of luck, he came to visit us, along with Kevin and Vicky, so to get us really excited for his upcoming feast!

Happy St Nicholas Day!

p.s. Ho-ho-ho hold your breath...we will be back in Canada in just about two weeks!

Saturday, December 03, 2011

The Two Advents

In 1948 Dick and Mac shut down their successful restaurant to make changes. Upon re-opening three months later, the hungry public found that the brothers had whittled their once large menu down to essentially one item: hamburgers. Since then, the restaurant franchise has become a globally recognized brand. The name of the restaurant? McDonald's.

Nowadays this type of drastic simplification is embedded in our daily lives. And food is hardly the only thing that has been turned into an easy-to-understand and uninteresting commodity. Many nuanced traditions have been thinned out as well. Advent is a case-in-point. A time to buy a Gaudily decorated calendar with twenty-five chocolates inside is the extent to which it is widely thought to be about now. As enticing as that might sound, no one could expect such an idea to actually capture and hold a person's imagination. But like many things, scratch the surface and we might discover something that compels us to think about its hidden layers and depths.

Look past the countdown chocolate calendars and you just might find your interest being piqued by the forgotten themes of Advent. This type of curiosity doesn't come from the usual loud and bright-colours (not to mention chocolately) sort of show that jolts you into a frenzy of activity. Its rather quite the opposite. Advent tells us to stop moving, be quiet and breathe deeply. It also says it is okay to wait because there are things worth waiting for. And not only are these things worth waiting and hoping for, but they rightly should be expected; from me, from you, from other people and from God. Even with only this most cursory mention of some of its larger themes it is clear why Advent can't and doesn't comfortably co-exist with the typical North Atlantic lifestyle. It really wouldn't be far off to suggest that Advent is a counter-cultural observance.

With our fifteen month adventure abroad swiftly coming to an end, we have been talking a lot about Advent in that context. It is exciting to countdown how many days until we fly home. We have certain expectations and hopes of what that will mean for us. Returning to Canada will require a transition period and it will probably be at least a bit demanding on us and on our family. Without going into any details, you might be able to see how this could give us a one-off framework with which to discuss and reflect on Advent this year. Our expectations, hopes and uncertainties about returning home fit right in with Advent.

It is important to add that with all this hoping, expecting and just generally looking ahead, we aren't forgetting to be fully present where we are. We can't thank Sonia (and Joel) enough for reminding us of this sage advice.

Alright, now you can go have today's Advent chocolate.

Monday, November 07, 2011

Packing Like a Pro

We have written about packing before, more than once. But how you pack really does impact your travel experience. The impact is either positive or it is negative. As an independent backpacker you will never have a neutral feeling about how and what you shoved into your rucksack. One person might snicker at the seventy to one hundred Liter packs labourously being hauled past her. Conversely, the poor soul carrying that eighty Liter pack will see a thirty Liter bag hanging seemingly weightlessly off the shoulders of another person and vow to himself to pack like that savvy traveller next time. We have each been travelling for a total of two out of the last eight years, almost always together. Not once in this time has a seventy-Liter-plus backpacker been evangelical about their pack size to us. But more of these folks than I can remember have asked us, "Is that all you have?" We can almost see a twinkle in their far away eyes when we say, "Yes." When you are considering what size your primary bag should be, keep in mind that just because your trip is big, doesn't mean your bag has to be. Mine is twenty-eight Liters and Kristen's is (an exorbitant) thirty-two Liters.

While on the topic of bags, it is important to have a good day bag. Thin, light and easy to stuff away are good characteristics for a day pack to have. We both carry a twelve Liter bag that we can pull out if we need to pack a picnic lunch or to carry whatever else.

Probably where we see most backpackers over-pack most often is with clothing. Carry five complete outfits if you really want to. For us, we find it works perfectly well to wear an outfit and have a second outfit folded in the bag. Depending where and when we are venturing, we will also pack a warm layer or rain wear. That being said, it is nice to have a supply of five pairs of socks and maybe even that many pairs of underwear if you get all funny about the hypothetical possibility of wearing them for more than one day in a row. All of this goes along with my thought that even in "regular" life, a lot of people seem to wash clothing that really doesn't need to be washed just yet. Its partly a water conservation thing. Anyway, I'll get back on track.

As for clothing, there are so many outdoor stores that are more than happy to outfit you in the latest outdoor performance clothing. You can find anything from quick dry fabric to moisture wicking material to shirts with SPF 40 ratings. That stuff is pretty expensive, though. It doesn't get the flashy marketing that these other products get, but Poly-Cotton mixes dry very quickly, don't wrinkle, are surprisingly durable and are available in every imaginable colour and pattern at every department store for less than $20.

You see, any fabric with at least thirty to forty percent polyster content or nylon is quick dry and wrinkle free, a good combination for any traveller. All you have to do is look at the shirt or pant tags to find out what will work for you.

Socks deserve special attention. There are so many options out there. But all socks are not created equal. You will probably come across the wool-nuts. One tag line for those in love with wool is, "Even if your wool is completely soaked, it will still keep you warm." They sell wool as if it is the obvious accessory to a machete that will be used to slice through uncharted Amazon territory. But if you're like us, you just want to adventure around the relatively well charted lands and not become the next Survivor Man. Besides, who really thinks walking around in wet socks is a novel idea anyway? Every department store has a wall of socks of all sorts. Most are 100% cotton. These aren't good travel socks. Look around the thinner, dressier socks and you will find polyester socks. Don't be put off by the idea of polyester: these are what most men wear when they dress up and they don't even know it! These socks are cheap, thin (read: more can be packed into less space) and dry super fast.

While talking about feet I should mention just how important good shoes are. I wear walking shoes and they double as hiking boots when I need them to. When they feel old-shoe-comfortable when I try them on in the store, I know I have found the right walking shoe. As I break them in they only become more comfortable. The comfort is important, but being waterproof is great too. I have worn Goretex walkers for years and haven't found anything better or more multi-purpose. This comes at a price, though. Where my whole travel wardrobe costs about $100 to $150 and lasts at least four years of travels, my shoes cost around $300 alone and seldom do they last even two years with the amount of walking I do. To me, it is worth the cost. Also, it doesn't upset me too much when they come as a birthday present.

Aside from over packing and carrying more weight on your shoulders while searching for a guest house than necessary, maybe the single worst thing a traveller can do is bring a quick dry microfiber towel. Ask anyone who has carried one what their experience with it was and I am pretty sure most people will mention how awful they smell after very few uses. You can wash them, but the first time you use it after washing it the horrible smell comes triumphantly back. Cotton is generally not a good fabric for travellers. It dries rather slowly and wrinkles notoriously. But a really thin cotton sarong will dry quick enough to be useful and it will efficiently dry you off after a shower and will never develop a smell. It is the only piece of cotton that I carry. These things are cheaper and much superior to the microfiber smellowels.

Electronics won't get much floor time here, but there is one product that I would like to mention. I am a book-lover. I love how they feel in my hands, I love how even the most simple cover design looks, I love that a book is there to impart something that interested another person, and I love how books smell. But they can be heavy in a backpack. Until this trip I was quite anti-Kindle for all the above it couldn't provide. But now the pros of the Kindle have interested us enough to make us really consider whether its cons might be outweighed, at least for travelling. A bonus to all the book side of the Kindle is that some models come with 3G. We haven't travelled with a Kindle yet, but it is possible that we might in the future.

Probably the best bit of packing wisdom we stick with is to pack for the best case scenario (or at least the most realistic one) and buy yourself out of problems. No, you won't be considered crazy if you only pack one 100g bottle of shampoo on your trip. Everyone else in the world bathes, too (some more often than others), and they have to buy their shampoo somewhere: its called a store and you can buy more shampoo there when you run out.

There is just one more thing. Whether it is the beginning, middle or end of your trip, the feeling of clearing customs and walking straight past the luggage carousels (where less fortunate travellers are waiting for their big, bumbly bags to appear) and then right out of the airport with your carry-on size bag is nothing short of wonderful. It really wouldn't be an overstatement to say that this is one of the true joys of travelling. Smart packing is light packing.

Saturday, April 23, 2011

Easter Greetings

We really have had an amazing trip thus far. If our trip finished tomorrow, we really would be able to call it a trip of a lifetime. Of course, we still have another eight months left on this adventure, all being well! Without naming names (there are too many) we can dole out the title salt of the earth to most of the people we have met along the way. More than any single aspect of this trip, our friends have been the brightest beacons for us in looking back so far. There have also been a few unsavoury characters along the way, too. Some of them we have written about in the blog and some we haven't.

It is really upsetting to knowingly be on the receiving end of a blatantly dishonest act. Or, to be spoken to everyday like you have absolutely zero worth apart from what is in your wallet is particularly grinding. Outright verbal abuse, no matter what language its in, is stressful to endure and just plain awful. Sometimes it can get too stressful and you want to pop. We've sometimes felt that way, anyway. Returning the favour can be a very tempting thought. For this person or that situation it seems the circumstances are extraordinary and the tenet of turning the other cheek no longer fits the bill. Your tune easily and angrily changes to an eye for an eye. After all, that person doesn't appear to deserve anything different or anything less.

The Easter story, however, says something quite different. It says that God has refused to discount the intrinsic worth of every person in the human community. It also says that an unshakeable commitment to every human person has been made and that it takes shape in Jesus the Nazorean. Of course, believing what the Easter story points towards is a matter of trust. But I wouldn't rush to call it a blind trust, though. If it were, I suspect very few people would bother making baptismal commitments. But every year, particularly at Easter Vigil services, people around the world do get baptized. And what they are saying in being baptized is that, "Yes, I trust there is a deeper purpose for me and for all people and that I want to explore this broader horizon that the Easter story sets before me."

Despite saying that there is, in fact, a built-in dignity to be honoured in every person, Easter by no means suggests that this is always an easy commitment to keep. After all there can't be Easter without the sometimes difficult journey there. Holy Week is a stark reminder of that. And this is the all-inclusive package that Easter offers. Of course there are people who can be depressing or frustrating to be around. With dreadful efficiency they can obscure every bit of their "built-in dignity." But they are no less important and no less loved by God than is a Mother Theresa or a Francis of Assisi. Indeed, Easter is an invitation into hope and into something fresh, but it is also (and equally) a challenge to committedly and lovingly look at all human people, annoying and saintly, as God does.

Christus resurrexit! Resurrexit vere!

Thursday, February 03, 2011

On Being Changed

Imagining stepping out of the constant and somewhat predictable rhythm of daily routine into a new script, one that you at least hope and maybe even expect is capable of surprising you, is both the most exciting and the most frightening part of travel. Considering the unpredictablility and the potential of who and what might be 'out there', these mixed feelings come not too unexpectedly. In so many situations around the world, after all, the possibility of dialogue, of meeting the 'other' with vulnerability and a readiness to begin honest self-criticism has been forfeited. Rather, as we are so often reminded, humanity is capable of doing horrific things. The decision to meet threat with counter-threat and resorting to intimidation through violence (which, in its self, breeds new types of insecurities and vulnerabilities) is daily reported in the media. Our collective awareness that we could inadvertently step into a violent conflict, into the crossfire, if we step out of the relative stability of what and who we know and are comfortable with is a legitimate concern. But despite our awareness of the dangers that lurk, however poorly they might be defined, many of us can't ignore that a truly vibrant potential for growth, connection and maturation also exists through who and what is out there.

The possibility that we aren't quite as free as our liberal self-conscience and democratic rhetoric likes to think begins to articulate itself in wholly practical ways when travelling. A country that you may be travelling through (not even stopping in) might require you to have a travel visa for their country, for example. Furthermore, it might be necessary to stay a few nights in a city that you explicitly wanted to avoid so that you can apply and wait for the said visa, because that country's only local consulate is in that particular city. Of course, these examples aren't worth discussing themselves. But they can serve as an obvious starting point for the traveller to begin reflecting on just how deeply we might be affected by factors outside of our control. Grasping this, even without giving these reflections the greater space and effort that they deserve, can substantially aid the traveller in psychologically preparing him or herself for the varied social, political, religious and economic currents that will be exerted upon them as they adventure abroad. Of course, there are certainly ways and degrees of cushioning your experience of the raw and unfiltered realities of the communities that you step into. Still, no matter how someone chooses to travel, the hope to absorb or be absorbed into something fresh, something real, is there.

It almost seems a waste to say that we all enter into these relationships and experiences with prejudices, perspectives and histories, with decisions and delusions that cannot be separated from who you or I am and have become as individuals. Because of this, the stretching of my horizon or yours, more often than not, does not happen in one dramatic swoop. Rather, this receptivity to who and what is out there usually manifests itself in the traveller through small, incremental ways and acts. This is akin to someone first dipping their toe in the water, than going to their ankles, then knees and so on. So in this sense, an increasing attentiveness might begin with something as small as noticing a smile from a passerby, when you might not usually even look to see what expression someone is wearing. Little by little the realization sets in that by listening, looking and speaking more intently, by being more in-tune with what is surrounding you, a door opens and welcomes you into a richer, more complicatingly engaged (and perhaps more bloggable) connection with the world.

It is tempting to think sometimes that you are actually doing a favour when you persevere in not turning away from someone. This is especially the case when it would be much easier to do just that, avert your eyes, close your ears, shut your heart. The trouble with this is that it paints an incomplete picture of what human reality is: in all our variety, we need each other. We learn and grow by doing and having things done to us. This process of challenge and resistance and compassionate response to it is how our identities are formed, reordered and resurrected with a little bit more maturity and an increased capacity to give and receive (dare I say it) selfless love. When someone has been convinced of their self-sufficiency, that their comfortable definitions are all-encompassing, that who they are meant to be has reached as high and as final a state as can be reached in this life, in the world, is when their attention is stunted into being merely a favour to the other and no more.

It is to avoid this static, delusional fantasy that we make ourselves vulnerable to what is other, by looking, by listening, by sharing, by loving. We actively attend to the other so that we may be moulded by it. It is an acknowledgment of our contingency, and that we do, in fact, have unavoidable individual and collective weaknesses. I also can't help but suggest that this is a parallel to what the Christian understands contemplation to be: Giving honest effort at making regular time just to be acutely receptive not only to the world, but most particularly to the ultimate Other, God embodied in the person Jesus of Nazareth. My point in all of this, though, as obscure as it might still be, is that as we engage with and open up to who and what is out there our lives hang just as precariously and are just as much in flux as those we view around us. None of us are fixed points in the ever shifting pattern of the world.

You have been pulled in every direction (physically and emotionally) and your senses have been bombarded. Somehow you can feel exhausted and rejuvenated at the same time. Bonds of friendships have been formed between you and former strangers on the go. Surely there are many more people who weren't converted into friends and maybe there is even someone who you particularly remember with mixed thoughts because of a deeply insensitive comment they directed at you. Creativity has possibly been found or reawakened through journalling, drawing, painting, blogging, poetry or some other medium. You have had times of mountainous happiness and valleys of frustration or even anger. This is travelling. And this is humanity in relation with itself. It demands very much from the adventurer. But, through experiences, particularly with all the varied people, the traveller can take much from the journey, too.

Many travellers, certainly us, travel at least in part so that they can bring home something new and something fresh back to their family, friends and community. Showing that a commitment to conscious, honest and unaccusatory relations with who and what you don't know well is worth the effort it demands is possibly one of the most dire imports needed in many pockets in the West. Of course, this doesn't mean we must endorse or believe what we are shown in our connections with others. It simply means being open to the process of listening and responding to and with each other. Upon returning home, the traveller, I think, is in a unique position to suggest this through photos, stories and by visibly living life with a more fantastically stretched horizon.

p.s. Happy Birthday, Airica and Dave!