Shenaini

Just a quick note to tell you about Shenaini. Paul and Dorothy, our friends from Fenghuang, took us on a personal tour of their home-factory. From here the products are designed, sewn, stocked and shipped. Also it is in this home-factory where the colours for the embroidery are experimented with and finally chosen. The choosing of the colours was a particularly interesting process. Once the designs for any particular product are finalized, the local embroidery experts, the Miao madams, dexterously set to work bringing forth examples of how each combination of coloured threads work together in the given embroidered templates. With the experimental palette of embroideries complete, the question What colours do you like the best? is floated around Shenaini: Paul and Dorothy, Sharon (the smiley lead hand in the factory), all the workers, the Miao women who actually did the embroidery and, while we were visiting, us! Yes, Paul and Dorothy even asked us which colours we preferred for a large order they were organizing for a company in the the USA! The Shenaini company culture is one that struck us as a very family-oriented one. For the short time we were there, we were made to feel like part of the Shenaini family, with pancakes and all!

One of the things that we were hoping to do by blogging for this trip was to highlight good things that were happening in the communities that we wandered into. Despite our best efforts to learn some local language along the way (mostly to help us find food and accommodation), short of finding folks like Paul and Dorothy, David and Sophie and a few others along the way, we can't find out about these local initiatives very easily. We haven't done a very good job with this part of our blogging. But when we do find folks like Paul and Dorothy who really care about building relationships with and in their community by engaging with the local people and their culture with respect, fairness and a real interest in making a positive contribution we get excited.

We could go on more about Shenaini, but maybe you should just check the website out yourself: Shenaini Website (the link will open in a new window).

And then We Ate Pancakes...

If Fenghuang had ended after a few dragon boat races, strolls along the river, delicious food and hanging out with our new Chinese friends, David and Sophie, we would have considered the stop a great success. Somehow it got even better, though. We were wandering through the supermarket, as we like to do in China, marveling at the endless aisles of undecipherable packaged goods and the number of items they successfully dry and vacuum pack. We had settled, as we usually do, on a bar of Dove chocolate (me) and some wafer cookies (Jonathan) and were just about to check out.

Just then two other foreigners came into the store. We noticed them straight off, which was pretty easy, seeing as we were the only four non Chinese people in the store, maybe even the city. Paul and Dorothy, it turns out, are a super friendly American couple doing some wonderful things in China with the small factory they run out of their home. Thankfully for us, Paul and Dorothy are incredibly generous and we were lucky enough to be invited over for dinner the following evening. We had a dinner date! We were super excited. What were we going to wear? haha

Before heading over to their house we stopped back in at the supermarket to pick up something to bring with us, to contribute to what would, no doubt, be a fantastic meal. We found ourselves in the cookie aisle, debating the pros and cons of Chips Ahoy versus Oreos. If we had been at home I would have been elated over the excuse to bake cookies or cupcakes, or something equally full of delicious, albeit empty calories. (What better kind of calories are there? Ohhhh, how I miss baking!) But, no, in China here we were in the cookie aisle trying to figure out which seventy-five cent package of cookies would be the least weird to be standing at Paul and Dorothy's door with. We almost wished the cookies were more expensive so we wouldn't feel so cheap showing up with less than a dollar of dessert. It was funny picturing being at home and showing up at someone's house for dinner with a package of store bought cookies as an offering. 'Hey, thanks for inviting us! I brought you some... umm Peak Freans.' Eventually I decided that we should at least try get something that someone else baked outside a factory and settled on a small roll cake from the bakery section. Success.

We were greeted warmly by Paul, Dorothy and their adorable dog, Mimi. Dorothy had made: deep breath (I'm drooling, remembering it) - a vegetarian quiche with HOMEMADE flaky crust with REAL butter and CHEESE, FRESH BREAD and a salad- with vegetables. Now, this may sound like a normal dinner that you, yourself had just the other night-but for us, it was absolutely the biggest treat we could imagine. Cheese. Butter. Homemade jam. All the staples that we totally take for granted at home, but are unavailable in Asia. We ate so slowly, savoring every bite and licking up every crumb.

Just as fabulous as the food, was spending time with Paul and Dorothy. They have been living in beautiful Fenghuang for five years now. Their company Shenanini produces a beautiful collection of embroidered fair-trade purses, wallets and bags. I think that was actually how they were transformed from strangers into friends: in the supermarket Paul showed Jonathan his wallet that had the three embroidered Chinese characters for Faith, Hope and Love. When Jonathan saw this he smiled and responded, "Oh, you're Christians. Us too." Anyway, Paul and Dorothy have a small, very talented permanent staff who do much of the sewing and pattern screening. But they also contract out the hand embroidery to the local minority Miao women to do on their own time, whenever they are free. This enables the women to make money while still being able to take care of their kids and carry on with whatever else they have going on in their lives at the time. More on their company in the next post, though.

Our time with Paul and Dorothy flew by. We could have talked for hours. They are so interesting, motivated, intelligent, and really funny. We can't describe how refreshing it is to meet people who understand what it is like to be in a completely foreign culture for so long, and to be able to express themselves so well. Mostly its good to know that we aren't crazy. That other people have similar experiences, apprehensions and questions as we do. We loved hearing their stories, sharing ours and learning about life in China. We loved being with a couple who were so positive, so real, so involved in their community and so in love with each other.

We went home that night feeling so lucky to have met Paul and Dorothy. China travel is hard. It's exhausting, frustrating and exhilarating. Some days it takes more from you than it gives. You really have no idea what the next day will bring, no matter how well you've planned the hours. And believe me, I try to plan them. Its amazing how things work out. On the edge of what could have become an exhausting breakdown (one of a few on this trip, I'm not going to lie) we really, REALLY just needed some normalcy from China. And then there were Paul and Dorothy, answered prayers in a way we couldn't have imagined up in our most creative moments. Really, a couple of Americans in the check out aisle of a Chinese supermarket- that's creative. I mean, we would have been more than happy with hostel staff that could manage a few English sentences, and instead we get a weekend of encouraging company and comfort food!

And I haven't mentioned the PANCAKES and MAPLE SYRUP that we shared for lunch the next day! Every morning, Jonathan and I wake up and there's a routine. 'What do you want for breakfast?' Jonathan asks me, even though, really our only choice is rice noodle soup, or, if we can manage to communicate it, rice noodles fried. I know this, of course, but it doesn't stop me from answering, 'pancakes with fruit and maple syrup!' (As my belly rumbles, I drool a little and render any other breakfast unsatisfactory- not helpful, by the way.) So, you can imagine our excitement when we stopped by Paul and Dorothy's the next day to chat a little more and pick out a perfect change purse from their collection to replace my ailing one, and Paul randomly asks if we wanted pancakes for lunch! Did we want pancakes for lunch?! Do the Chinese like to chew on chicken feet? We hadn't expected to be fed again, of course, we are just having really, REALLY lucky timing. Of course we wanted pancakes and Paul's homemade Maple syrup for lunch! Total jackpot! I think I may have actually danced to the kitchen, equally as excited to stir up the batter as I was to chow down on some PANCAKES!

Anyways, Paul, Dorothy and Mimi were super understanding of our ecstatics over their food. Or, if they weren't they did a wonderful job of being the perfect hosts hiding it. haha

Thank you again so much to Paul and Dorothy for being so welcoming and wonderful. We feel so blessed to have met you and Fenghuang wouldn't have been the same without you.

Couples Who Wear Matching Outfits

We arrived in Fenghuang jonesin' for some English. We had been in gorgeous, but relatively remote, or at least un-foreign tourist-ed spots for the previous couple weeks and were hoping that Fenghuang, a bigger, more touristy old city, would have at least a single hostel employee that could answer some of our questions. It became rather quickly apparent that this wasn't going to be the case. It was touristy, alright- it seemed like all of the 1.3 billion Chinese people had chosen this week to come to Fenghuang as well. We sat down on a stone wall by the picturesque river, trying to figure out where, exactly, on the useless Lonely Planet map we were and where we could sleep.

As has been the case in the majority of our China travels- people were staring and taking photos of us. Being hot, lost and frustrated, the unwanted attention didn't help. I'm pretty sure I shot more than a few daggers at the passing photographers. Then, a Chinese couple, maybe a little younger than us, the man wearing a red and white striped shirt, and the woman in the matching dress version stopped and stood over us. They stared and bent over us like they were trying to read the Lonely Planet over our shoulders. I thought it was quite annoying, but this is what many Chinese do. I was just about to ask them why they just had to stand there and stare at us when the man piped up. 'Where are you from?' He asked. I wasn't in the mood for small talk. Thankfully, Jonathan is endlessly patient. 'Canada,' he answered, smiling, before turning back to the map. Were we holding it upside down? What side of the river are we even on? Man, this map sucks (as usual). 'What can I do for you?' asked the Chinese man. I sighed and rolled my eyes. What is it with Chinese couples dressing the same, anyways? Did the matching outfits come in a package? At a discount? 'Well... I could use a foot massage, but really, we're fine, thanks, just looking for a place to sleep,' Jonathan responded.

The couple continued to stand there, hunched over our guidebook like maybe if we all stared long enough a hotel would magically hop off the page like a pop-up tent right in front of our eyes and, heck, we could just sleep there. I don't know why I need to get so annoyed almost immediately, I know that often, the Chinese are really just trying to help and they mean no offense by constantly and obviously staring and taking our photo. China just has a way of getting under your skin. For me, and my long-suffering husband, its almost every day we move to another destination. It was my choice to create our Chinese itinerary out of a whole bunch of out-of-the-way, backwater, remote, destinations. Of course travel was going to be harder than your typical Bejing-Xi'an-Chengdu trip. But as soon as I thinking about how complicated it is, and how we can't communicate with anyone- I get annoyed. I love it and hate it with equal passion, every day. Its exhausting.

'You can come to our hotel,' suggested the man, whose English name turned out to be David. I shrugged and sent Jonathan along to check it out while I babysat the bags. 'Are you ok?' I was asked for the second time that hour by a European sounding man about my age. I was defensive. I was just sitting here. Why did everyone think I had some sort of problem. 'Yes, why?' I asked, a little snarkily, I admit. This was the first foreigner I had spoken to in about a week- what was my problem? Why was I being rude? I guess I did have one after all. 'Oh, they said you needed help,' the European responded. 'Who's they?' I asked, looking around, immediately annoyed again. 'Oh, the Chinese people. They say you don't speak Chinese and you need help,' he answered matter-of-factly, motioning behind him. Mostly, I was annoyed because it was true. And apparently obvious to everyone around. Hmmmmm. Despite my unfriendliness he continued to tell me where he was staying, how much it cost and that there was a room left, if I so required. I thanked him and he walked away, vowing never to be helpful again, no doubt.

Jonathan returned, with his new best friend, David, in tow. It turns out that David and his girlfriend Wan Kai, or Sophie as I later named her (How fun is that? I named someone!) just graduated from a four year University English program. They really wanted to talk to/help us, but they were shy, hence the staring. Yup, its official- I'm a jerk. They studied English for four years and so very rarely got to actually practice speaking, that they were very nervous to do so, especially with us foreigners, even though their English really was quite good. We carried our bags back to the perfect hotel with the perfect panoramic balcony as a team. They acted as our official translators with the hotel owner and directed him to set us up with a fan, toilet paper, towels and even pre-set the TV to the one and only English channel, so all we had to do was press power and-voila- good old consistently depressing world 'news'- in English! The lap of luxury, really. They told us their room number and that we could come get them if we needed anything else. So nice. I felt especially bad for originally being so annoyed. As is almost always the case.

A couple days later, David knocked on our door. 'Hello!' I greeted him cheerfully. He smiled, but looked confused. 'Is Jon here?' he asked, like a kid asking their parent if their child could come out and play. Jonathan came to the door. Turns out David can't really understand me. Jonathan speaks much MUCH slower, deliberately and with perfect pronunciation. Those who know me know- I don't. At all. Sometimes Jonathan has to translate my English into his English for other people. Anyways, David and Sophie wanted to hang out, 'taste the local dishes,' and 'take many beautiful photos' with us down by the river as, 'meeting us has been a very special memory that they will always remember.' Cute, right?

David was very concerned as to how we ever get any food to eat, being that all of the menus are only in Chinese, and of course, the vegetarian complication. Really though, its quite easy. We point. We confidently walk into the kitchen (which is often just right there in the same room, making it easy) and point to eggplant, potatoes, spinach, lotus root, noodles, or whatever suits our fancy. We point to garlic and chillis so is clear that we like it spicy. What was so frustrating at the beginning of our Chinese adventure, is now the easiest part of our day. Rice is unlimited for a mere 30cents each- and yum- for under $4, we have a full, filling meal for two. Two can dine for $3.99! ('Are you outta your mind?!') How will we go back to a fork and knife?

David and Sophie wanted to take some photos down by the river, show us the local spicy pulled ginger sugar candy, go on a boat cruise to taste some local wine, take us for dinner and finish off the night with drinks at a small, hidden riverside cafe that they had discovered. Turns out Chinese white wine is whisky, though- for all those who are interested. Its quite shocking when you are expecting wine, as we think of it. And funny.

Splashing water at friends and strangers is a favourite pass time on the boat cruise- turns out. We were on a small wooden boat similar to a gondola, being punted down the river. Being foreigners, we were prime target to the surrounding splashes. Splashing water spreads 'good luck.' The Chinese take luck very seriously. David and Sophie did their very best, in their defense, to convince everyone that we were quite lucky enough without their splashing- but of course, it was to little avail. Jonathan started a small war with one hand swipe into the river. We were soaked. Who are we to turn down luck?

It was a fantastic experience, and our first, to really be able to talk to Chinese people, in China about their opinions and experiences. It was the first time that they had shared a meal with foreigners- and our first time to share a meal with locals. How exciting! In China dishes are not ordered individually. Instead, a series of dishes are ordered and placed in the middle of the table along with a massive bowl of white, steamed rice. I think it pained David a little bit to have to order all vegetarian food when there are so many meat dishes that Fenghuang is 'famous' for, that he wanted us to try. He took it all in stride though, and ordered us a fantastic spread. Everyone at the table has a small bowl. Smaller than a typical cereal bowl. Half the size, maybe. Rice is piled into your small bowl with a spoon from the communal bowl. Then, using chopsticks, you pick your choice morsels out of the oily dishes (not as bad as it sounds, but yes, oily), and put them into your bowl a little at a time, as not much can fit with all that rice. Everyone shares the dishes, using the same chopsticks to serve as to eat. With a growing concern of disease or sickness, some restaurants provide serving spoons for the dishes, but between friends and family, most just stick to the chopstick method. Chinese people eat very fast. Often two or three parties will eat and leave before we are done savoring our meal. Its unabashedly loud, slurpy and messy. Many people hold their bowl up close their mouths use the chopsticks shovel style. Any bones or unwanted chunks are scattered across the table and floor. Not only do they clean the table between restaurant customers- they change the entire table cloth! The craziest part about it all. This is becoming completely normal to us. Really, whats so bad about slurping in surround sound anyways?

We are so happy to have had the opportunity to meet and spend time with David and Sophie. China is full of fantastic, interesting people, and we are so glad to be able to have had an insightful chat with a couple of them.

ps. Yes, that sure is a flattened pig face!

pps. Today is 285 days of travel for us! Can you believe it?

ppps. We are flying to Kathmandu, Nepal in one week, just so you know.